NAPSUGAR VON BITTERA AW’14 + INTERVIEW WITH THE DESIGNER
Hungarian designer Napsugar von Bittera, whose name means sunshine in her mother tongue, has a unique approach to fashion after starting her career in costume design.
Bittera’s AW’14 collection takes inspiration from the consumer society and the seven cardinal sins of the bible, with the addition of five more - prodigality, negligence, lust for power, irresponsibility and deception. The two themes are worked into a graphic motif, which is screen printed on to silk and seen as laser-cut designs in leather.
Exaggerated and oversize pieces are combined with body contouring silhouettes, playing with loose tracing and feminine styles. Block colours are used in minimalist structured shapes such as cropped fur and leather jackets, crisp shirts, woollen a-line skirts and wide cropped trousers, whilst Bittera’s sketchy motif is seen on monochrome shirts, sweatshirts and floor length dresses with laser cut detail.
A vivid palette of bright red, ultramarine blue and turquoise are given a touch of luxury with gold tones, and compliment classic colours such as navy, black and white, which appear throughout the collection.
Bittera’s AW’14 collection was presented in a formal manner, with models posing on a collection of seats from a plane, or against giant props of a bitten ice lolly and a box of popcorn all with a nostalgic 50s style and pop-art style text.
Two minutes with Napsugar von Bittera…
Who do you design for?
I always have in mind a woman who is intelligent but easy going with a good sense of humour. Someone who likes to have fun with fashion and doesn’t take herself too seriously.
What themes did you want to include in your collection?
The 12 sins – lust, envy, gluttony, wrath, pride, greed, sloth, prodigality, negligence, lust for power, irresponsibility and deception, and contemporary cubism, though I didn’t want it to be too negative so I added comical consumerism shown with the giant props.
What’s the story behind your colour palette?
The Ferrari red, ultramarine blue and pure black are colours you don’t find in nature, which is why I incorporated them, along with colours from the pop art movement.
Who inspires you?
All designers, but I love [Alexander] McQueen. Anyone who is unique and makes their style personal to them, I admire Louis XIV, he was the first fashion dictator.
What are your must have items for SS’14?
My [Napsugar von Bittera SS’14] Cinderella laser cut dress, and the wicked step-mother dress with Snow White leather jacket.
Words, interview and images by Hollie Bracciale