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DAVID KOMA AW’14

David Koma presented his first collection at the age of 15 after studying Fine Art in St Petersburg. In 2003 he moved to London to study BA Fashion Design at CSM, followed by MA Fashion in 2009, where he created his signature body contouring silhouettes.

Koma has become synonymous with ultra body contouring designs, empowering the wearer with strong architectural elements to create feminine shapes. He is also known for his unique embellishment. However, Koma created something new for AW’14.

The collection has a military influence as Koma designs pieces that almost appear as armour around the wearer’s contours, contrasting simple structured shapes with the organic feminine form. Pieces are strong, architectural and geometric in a dark palette of navy and black, with touches of light grey and a pop of cobalt blue and purple.

Koma uses seductively shiny satin, knit and soft matte leather in various combinations to add interest to simple shapes.

Detail is added to the pieces with laser cut square links and intricately woven strips of leather, used to form portions of dresses and jackets. The soft leather in also cleverly used in concertina pleats creating skirts that bounce with the slightest movement.

 Words and images by Hollie Bracciale

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HIROKO NAKAJIMA AW’14

Hiroko Nakajima presented her AW’14 collection on the Ones to Watch catwalk, after being picked by Fashion Scout. Only four designers are chosen as their emerging talent for the season.

The Hiroko Nakajima brand was launched by Nakajima after graduating from CSM with an MA in fashion design in 2012. The knitwear brand specialises in luxury materials such as cashmere and focuses on Nakajima’s philosophy of fashion as wearable art.

The label’s AW’14 collection is geometric and minimalist whilst also being bold colourful art. A monochrome palette is lifted with pops of orange and red, whilst a bright blue is used against a contrasting yellow.

Nakajima’s use of geometric shapes in juxtaposing shades, punctuate garments of block colour. She manages to take a minimalist, knee length, long sleeve dress in blue and make it eye-catching by adding a dart of shocking pink in a plain block on one side of the dress.

Interest is added to the range by layering different colours and shapes in an outfit. Capes in various lengths and shapes are used in the collection to add a new dimension whilst stripes are cleverly used to fall in waves to add softer, rounded shapes to angular designs.


Words and images by Hollie Bracciale

 

 

 

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XIAO LI AW’14

After graduating from Womenswear fashion design at LCF, Xiao Li continued studying at the Royal College of Art where she developed her unique style of knitwear, combining classic techniques with unusual materials.

Li was named Fashion Scout’s Merit Award winner for AW’14 earlier this year, and showcased her much anticipated collection to an almost over capacity audience in Covent Garden this Saturday.

A fresh palette of pastel and cobalt blue, white and cream was used in feminine nostalgic silhouettes with a bit of a kick. Li pairs unlikely materials together such as knitted netting against shiny PVC trimmed with frills of heart motifs.

A sleeveless cobalt blue oversized leather jacket is given a punk edge with studded trimming in one of her more masculine pieces. These are dotted throughout her collection contrasting with designs that otherwise could be too pretty and girly.

Oversized pieces or details are also a theme seen in sleeves which are exaggerated to resemble marshmallow forms in netted material. Li also manages to incorporate often overlooked garments; a poncho, a denim jacket, culottes and dungarees, and makes them contemporary again by applying her synonymous style of pastel sweetness and juxtaposition.

Words and images by Hollie Bracciale

Krystof Strozyna at LFW

 

        

This year marks the 11th AW show by Krystof Strozyna. Rightfully putting Polish design talent on the map, his style of simple but feminine lines is minimalist and clean. This collection was however a little different.

For AW’12 Krystof Strozyna has broken away from soft shapes and opted for structured pieces. Square necklines, pointed shoulders and panelled pieces reign supreme in his collection. Each piece either had a little something extra or something taken away. Extensions of his pieces are formed through extra side panels on dresses imitating the front of a jacket or high-collared long capes. Strozyna added zips to create cheeky side slits and took away parts of the dress to form block cut out section. Thigh high slits in long skirts and dresses added a vampish quality to the selection while small silver panels and diamante cuffs gave the collection a techno-space quality. The colour spectrum swayed little away from the monochromatic scale but with occasional pop brights of cobalt blue, orange and pink. Strozyna adds interest by juxtaposing fabrics against each other with sheer chiffons shirts and skinny leather trousers.

        

Photography: Alan Parker